How to Train for Climbing [Full Body Guide ft. Dan Beall]

☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool 🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint ⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store 📧 For business inquiries: [email protected] IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES: 👨‍⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions 🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/coaching 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES: ➡️ Gear: - $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5 - 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta - 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10" - 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA - REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk ➡️Performance: - 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": https://macrofactorapp.com/ ➡️Gyms: - The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/ - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental! Videos mentioned: Core Strength vs. Body Tension (Ep. 123): https://youtu.be/jwyd40EBnlI ⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00:00 Intro and Overview 00:00:36 Basic Context & Programming Advice 00:02:06 Upper Body: Vertical Pull (Anatomy) 00:03:01 1. Vertical Pull: Relevance 00:03:48 2. Vertical Pull: Exercise Recommendations 00:04:45 3. Vertical Pull: Exercise Demo 00:06:05 4. Vertical Pull: "Bad" Form 00:07:04 5. Vertical Pull: Progression 00:09:21 6. Vertical Pull: Rep Range 00:10:03 7. Vertical Pull: Final Note 00:10:30 Upper Body: Horizontal Pull (Anatomy) 00:11:18 1. Horizontal Pull: Relevance 00:13:47 2. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Recommendation 00:14:57 3. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Demo 00:17:31 4. Horizontal Pull: Progression 00:19:59 5. Horizontal Pull: Rep Range 00:21:30 Upper Body: Shoulder External Rotation (Anatomy) 00:22:07 1. Shoulder External Rotation: Relevance 00:23:23 2. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Recommendation 00:24:36 3. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Demo 00:27:20 4. Shoulder External Rotation: Progression 00:30:25 Upper Body: Compression (Anatomy) 00:31:48 1. Compression: Relevance 00:32:35 2. Compression: Exercise Recommendation 00:33:47 Upper Body: Push (Anatomy) 00:34:45 1. Push: Relevance 00:36:02 2. Push: Exercise Recommendation 00:37:39 3. Push: Exercise Demo 00:38:30 4. Push: Easier Variations 00:41:58 5. Push: Rep Range 00:42:23 Upper Body: Fingers, Hands, Wrist (Anatomy) 00:43:41 1. Fingers: Relevance 00:44:32 2. Fingers: General Recommendations 00:45:24 3. Fingers: Programming & Progression 00:47:48 4. Fingers: How to Get Started 00:49:14 5. Fingers: Hangboard Form 00:51:59 Lower Body: Push (Anatomy) 00:52:57 1. Leg Push: Relevance 00:53:47 2. Leg Push: Exercise Demo 00:54:30 3. Leg Push: Progression 00:54:50 4. Leg Push: Final Note & Progression 00:55:43 Lower Body: Pull (Anatomy) 00:56:41 1. Leg Pull: Relevance 00:57:21 2. Leg Pull: Exercise Demo 00:57:27 Lower Body: Toe Hook (Anatomy) 00:58:33 1. Toe Hook: Relevance & Recommendations 00:59:41 2. Toe Hook: Quick Technique Demo 01:00:25 Lower Body: Heel Hook (Anatomy) 01:01:47 1. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Relevance & Recommendations 01:03:22 2. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Exercise Demo 01:05:52 Lower Body: Hip Abduction & Adduction (Anatomy) 01:07:02 1. Hip Abduction/Adduction: Relevance 01:07:49 2. Hip Adductors: Exercise Demo 01:08:39 Dan Beall Coaching Info & Conclusion 📝 SHOW NOTES Episode 125 https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-for-climbing-full-body-guide ⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program. 🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS Anatomy Images (WikiCommons): Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons FHL, gastrocnemius, peroneals, tibialis: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons Quads: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA, via Wikimedia Commons Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons Ankle and Toe Extensors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons Ankle Movement: Connexions, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons